Oils and butters are widely used in skincare formulations due to their ability to influence moisture retention, texture, and formulation stability. Each oil or butter has a unique composition of fatty acids, antioxidants, and other bioactive compounds that contribute to its functional properties. Below is an overview of commonly used oils and butters and their primary components.
1. Shea Butter – Fatty Acid Composition and Emollient Properties
Shea butter is derived from the nuts of the Vitellaria paradoxa tree. It contains a mixture of triglycerides, free fatty acids, and unsaponifiable components.
- Primary Fatty Acids – Oleic acid (40–60%), stearic acid (20–50%), linoleic acid (3–11%).
- Tocopherols and Phytosterols – These compounds contribute to its oxidative stability.
- Triglyceride Structure – Provides an occlusive effect that can reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
2. Cocoa Butter – Stability and Functionality
Cocoa butter, extracted from Theobroma cacao seeds, is known for its high oxidative stability due to its saturated fat content.
- Primary Fatty Acids – Stearic acid (24–37%), oleic acid (29–38%), palmitic acid (24–30%).
- High Melting Point – Allows it to function as a solid lipid in formulations.
- Crystal Polymorphism – Can affect texture and stability in emulsions.
3. Almond Oil – Lipid Composition and Application in Emulsions
Sweet almond oil is obtained from Prunus amygdalus dulcis and is classified as a lightweight oil with high spreadability.
- Primary Fatty Acids – Oleic acid (62–86%), linoleic acid (7–30%), palmitic acid (5–7%).
- Tocopherol Content – Contributes to lipid stability and extends shelf life.
- Emollient Function – Reduces friction on the skin, which can enhance the feel of emulsions.
4. Meadowfoam Seed Oil – Oxidative Stability and Molecular Structure
Meadowfoam seed oil, extracted from Limnanthes alba seeds, is notable for its long-chain fatty acid composition.
- Primary Fatty Acids – Eicosenoic acid (60–65%), docosenoic acid (15–20%), erucic acid (10–15%).
- High Oxidative Stability – Due to its unique fatty acid structure.
- Film-Forming Properties – Can contribute to moisture retention when used in barrier formulations.
5. Sunflower Oil – Linoleic Acid Content and Barrier Function
Sunflower oil, derived from Helianthus annuus seeds, is commonly used in skincare due to its high linoleic acid content.
- Primary Fatty Acids – Linoleic acid (48–74%), oleic acid (14–40%), palmitic acid (4–9%).
- Low Comedogenicity – Suitable for formulations designed for varied skin types.
- Phospholipid Content – Can influence the stability of emulsified systems.
Refined vs. Unrefined Oils and Butters
Oils and butters can be used in either refined or unrefined forms. The refining process removes impurities, color, and odor, making the material more consistent from batch to batch. However, some refining methods may reduce the concentration of certain bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols and tocopherols. Selection depends on formulation requirements, including stability, sensory properties, and regulatory considerations.
Conclusion
Oils and butters serve functional roles in skincare formulations, contributing to moisture retention, texture modification, and oxidative stability. Their selection should be based on fatty acid composition, oxidative stability, and intended application to achieve the desired formulation performance.
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